Why Grow Plants From Seed?
If this is your first time growing from seed, then you are on the right track. Educate yourself is my first suggestion. Even if you are a seasoned gardener it is a wonderfully fulfilling task to grow your own plants. Watching a plant grow through its entire life cycle, seed to plant and back to seed, is very rewarding and often makes growing from seed worth the effort. But it does take effort and a little know how.
Visit our Vegetable and Flower Stores for a vast range of plant varieties, colors, growth forms as well as organic seeds. Purchasing online is cheaper because you don’t have to pay sales tax and many vendors ship for free, plus there is no overhead! So starting from seed affords you more choice. Many types of vegetables, herbs and flowers are very easy to grow from seed. You can save money and find a larger variety to choose from when you start your own. Growers don’t need to settle for the smaller selection of plants available at the local garden center.
Although it’s not always the case, growing from seed can also be less expensive than the purchasing seedlings or mature plants. You’ll get the best results if you purchase fresh seeds, packaged for the upcoming growing season. High quality, fresh seeds from reputable seed producers have the best rates of germination. If you have saved seeds that you purchased last year, before planting test the germination rate. Starting seeds indoors, prior to the outdoor growing season, does require the right supplies for creating a suitable indoor environment, but most of the expense is associated with the first season your start seeds. Once you have the equipment, the cost of growing from seed is minimal.
Start with the basics:
Soil, water, light, and good seed. That’s it, generally speaking. The soil needs to be a good quality seed mix that you can buy ready to go or you make yourself. The soil should consist of garden loam, clean sharp sand, and peat moss, humus, or leaf mold in equal parts. The soil itself needs to be thoroughly dampened but not soggy. The container should drain well. Some gardeners use a layer of gravel with a thin layer of sphagnum moss topped with the soil. The soil can be put into seed trays or pots that have been sterilized and soaked. During the course of germination, seeds need to be kept uniformly moist and must not be allowed to dry out. At the same time, they should not be too wet. I like to water from the bottom.
Preparations:
Try all kinds to see what works for you. Make sure they are clean and have good drainage. If you are using a fiber or peat pot, soak it well before adding soil. Dry fiber pots draw moisture away from the soil. Even moisture continues to be critical. Delicate seedlings can be sprayed or watered with a bulb syringe using room temperature water. Don’t allow them to get soggy though. Water in the morning, but let them go to sleep dry.
As they grow, thin by removing weaker plants. Don’t cut or break them off; pull them gently from the soil.
Fill pots or flats to within 1/4 inch of the top with your potting mixture and level the surface. It’s a good idea to 
water the soil and allow it to drain thoroughly before sowing the seeds. Make a hole for each seed with your finger or a pencil. Keep in mind that most seeds need to be planted four times as deep as the seed is wide. If your seeds are very fine, cover them with a fine layer of soil.
Germinating medium should be kept evenly moist but not soaking wet. Too much moisture will cause the seeds to rot. Use a fine sprayer to water newly planted seeds and tiny seedlings or, if possible, water from the bottom. If you can, slip your pots and flats into plastic bags to keep the humidity and moisture even and reduce the frequency of watering.
Germinating:
Once germinated, all seedlings need light to develop into strong, healthy plants. Seedlings in a window need to be turned every day to prevent them from bending.
If you do not have an area in your home that receives a large amount of natural light, purchase an inexpensive shop light and use a full spectrum grow-light bulb. Hang the light on an adjustable chain and S hooks, just barely over the top of the seedlings, and adjust the height as your seedlings grow keeping the light about 3-4 inches from the seedlings. This is an important step. Supplement the natural light with full spectrum grow-light bulbs for added plant health. The seedlings may need bright light, but should not sit in direct sunlight, which can burn small plants. A southern exposure, just out of direct light, is often ideal.
The temperature for germination should be about 60–70 degrees. Germination mats are helpful, especially if your house is cold, but you can set the trays anywhere the temperature is in that range. Sometimes the top of the refrigerator works, or near a wood stove. Again read the specific instructions for the seeds you’ve selected.
Young plants germinating from seed are fragile and vulnerable. Purchase a special growing mix for starting seeds and trays that provide good drainage. Be sure to keep the soil evenly moist while the young plants are developing root system. Cover with fine soil three times the diameter of the seed.
Various seeds require different handling. Some seeds require light to germinate while others prefer total darkness; others need to be scarified (a roughening up or pricking seed coats: I use sandpaper). Still others need to be presoaked. Your seed packet should tell you what your seed’s requirements are, if not google your plant for detailed information.
Seedling Care:
The care you give your seedlings in the weeks following germination is critical. Keep them moist, but not 
dripping. Small pots and flats dry out quickly, so I use a clear plastic hood about 6-8 inch tall. If your seedlings are growing in a windowsill, turn often to encourage straight stems. The warmth needed for germination is no longer required. Dropping the temperature to between 50 and 60 degrees once the seed leaves appear forces the plants to become more stocky and vigorous. (A basement works great).
The first two leaves you will see on the plant are not true leaves but food storage cells called cotyledons. Cotyledons, the first leaves a young plant sends up and it will be hard to tell your plants apart because at this stage they all look more or less the same except for size. So it is a good idea to label your plants. The true leaves develop next and at that point you’ll be able to distinguish between your tomatoes and the thyme. Once the first true leaves have developed, it’s time to start fertilizing. A diluted, high-quality organic fertilizer applied once a week encourages healthy development of young plants. If you plan to transplant, don’t fertilize until you’ve moved the seedlings.
Seedlings also require adequate air movement to help prevent fungal growth and stems rotting at the soil line. A small fan set up in the growing area, or a ceiling fan in the room, will do the job. Also, don’t forget to wash your hands before you work with your plants. Your hands carry all kinds of micro-organizems that can kill young plants.
Transplanting:
Transplanting strengthens some plants and weakens others. Find out which category your seedlings fall into before choosing 
your container. Read the seed packets because they will often tell you what works and what doesn’t. No seed packet can replace a good gardening book and experience though.
To transplant, prepare containers and soil. Terracotta pots should be soaked ahead of time. Soil should be moistened uniformly, but remain workable. It should form a ball but readily fall apart. If it’s super sticky, it probably has too much clay. Amend with compost and some sand for better drainage. Use a teaspoon or fork to lift transplant from the soil. Place in a prepared container and firm soil carefully about the roots. Don’t plant too loosely. If you are transplanting from seed trays, gently pull the young plants apart and place gently in a prepared hole. If you’ve transplanted your seedlings from seed tray to peat pots, then you can plant your plants directly into the ground without disturbing the roots again. This is the best choice for plants that are weakened by transplanting.
Planting Plan:
Don’t rush to transplant seedlings into the garden and don’t transplant until your seedlings have a couple sets of true leaves. If they won’t withstand frost, be sure all danger of frost has passed before setting them out. Consider what does well with other plants. Some plants, especially vegetables, will not produce well if planted near incompatible plants or in the soil of an unloved plant from the previous season. Color combinations can make a difference too. If your seedlings require staking or trellises, it’s best to have those in place before you plant. These can offer unique decorating ideas for your garden.
Water the ground outside and the seedlings thoroughly before transplanting. This helps prevent transplant shock. It’s preferable to transplant on a cloudy day so strong sun won’t wilt your seedlings. Dig a hole about twice the size of the root ball and set the transplant into the hole so the root ball will be covered by 1/4 inch of soil. Press the soil firmly around the roots. A small depression around the plant stem will help trap moisture. Water immediately after transplanting and every day for the first week. Be sure to water deeply so you plants won’t develop shallow roots.
Hardening Off:
Before planting outside, you will have to ‘harden off’ your seedlings, exposing them to the outdoors for short and then longer 
stretches of time so that they can become acclimated to the sunlight and temperature fluctuations
It takes a few days for plants to become accustomed to their new environment. If you protect them from environmental stresses and hungry bugs and slugs, you should start to see them take off in about a week as long as the weather cooperates. Timing is important, but even the most experienced gardeners are only able to do their best guessing about when to transplant. A very wet or dry spring can throw off your entire time table.
One week before transplanting your seedlings outdoors, start to harden them off. Tender young plants must be protected from wind, strong light, and cooler temperatures. This process acclimates the soft and tender plants to their new environment. Move the plants to a shady outdoor area at first, and bring them indoors for the night if night temperatures are cold. Each day, move them out into the sun for a few hours, increasing the time spent in the sun each day. At this stage, start watching for slugs and bugs. Slugs in particular are notorious for annihilating small seedlings. If you see them, kill ‘em. I put out slug bait around each stem, but not touching it. Continue keeping them evenly moist. It takes about two weeks to condition your plants.
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